The Made Nice confit doesn’t have the creaminess or the concentrated delicacy that suckling pig gives the original, or the golden roof of crisp skin. The Made Nice chicken, by contrast, is ordinary — moist without being juicy, as if all its flavor had leaked out of the meat in order to make the stuffing as gummy as possible. But some of the food at Made Nice doesn’t just suffer by comparison; it can also suffer all on its own. To test it out, I ate one of my three Made Nice meals at The New York Times Building. Whether the same recipes can suit both experiences is the question Made Nice asks.

Source: New York Times August 15, 2017 15:56 UTC