There’s a confidence to the cooks Tejal interviewed. They’re proud of their craft, of the food they’re selling, and it occurred to me, reading about them, that cooking can and should satisfy and delight these days, after so many months of cooking so often, of honing our skills. You don’t need some towering sourdough boule to achieve that. You can just cook, simply and well, and marvel at how good it makes you and others feel. I washed it all down with clam stock, then mopped the bowl with a heel of lard bread I had lying around.

Source: New York Times January 27, 2021 15:22 UTC