— that simply can’t be done in a restaurant, for reasons of scale and sanitation, speed and consistency. The recipe that accompanies her essay is for a zucchini tian (above), a sort of prettified ratatouille that Gabrielle learned from her late ex-mother-in-law, in Puglia, Italy. It is home cooking at its slow-and-steady finest, even if Gabrielle has successfully made and served it at Prune (and, as it happens, under the klieg lights of Kitchen Stadium, where in 2008 she used it to best Bobby Flay on “Iron Chef America: Battle Zucchini”). I think it’d be a great dish to cook this week. Tonight, though, I’m thinking Anita Lo’s cauliflower chaat for one, or a souped-up bowl of perfect ramen, with butter and a poached egg.

Source: New York Times September 07, 2020 14:26 UTC