In the hedonist’s view of American immigration patterns, bad times for chefs in China are good times for dumpling chasers and noodle hunters in New York. Balancing any spareness, though, are the spicy intensity of some dishes and the stripped-down purity of others. View all New York Times newsletters. All danger of dullness is obliterated, though, when Madam Zhu’s Spicy Fish Stew shows up. On a night when the restaurant was at full capacity, the Taiwanese pork noodles were monotonously sweet, and the dan dan noodles were an unfocused blur.

Source: New York Times September 13, 2016 19:29 UTC