Aimsir has been a long time coming, a serious food project in which the English chef and his Danish wife, Majken Bech-Bailey, announced a plan to put Ireland on a plate. The Cliff at Lyons looks like Tolkien’s shire styled by Cath Kidston, lots of stone cut low buildings amid manicured lawns and shrubs. And the aim is two stars, rather than one, if the cut-glass precision of Every Last Detail is anything to go by. Like the hollowed-out skin of a Violetta potato that looks like an animal dropping, with a white flower on top. I’ll remember a glass of beet and blackcurrant juice served with a scorched rosemary twig long after I’ve forgotten the rubbish that passes for the non-alcoholic option in almost every other restaurant in Ireland.

Source: The Irish Times May 18, 2019 05:15 UTC