About 10 years ago, the word “sommelier” was in the middle of both a PR glow-up and an identity crisis. The latter helped introduce the word “somm” to the public, and cement a new image of the “somm” as someone who partied like an honors student—who kept up with the grades but knew how to throw down, a loose tie and an open bottle on their person any old Thursday night. Whether stodgy trad bro or trendy natty dad, whether “sommelier” or “somm,” the groups and their audiences were predominantly white, male and resource-rich, and had no problem keeping the gates closed. The somm, who became increasingly linked to natural wine, became burdened with what The New Yorker called “virtuous consumption,” while the party took its toll on the most marginalized in the group. If you wanted to locate the “somm” crew talking about skin-contact wines while shirtless at a natural wine bar, just follow the cocaine.

Source: Punch November 16, 2023 21:59 UTC