Last spring, the powerhouse restaurateur Stephen Starr took it over and brought in the chef Mark Ladner, who rose from the pasta station at Babbo to running the haute Del Posto. It’s only when the dishes arrive that you start to see what Mr. Ladner is trying to do. Mr. Ladner thought it too rich, and he was right. In a holdover from Del Posto, lamb scottadito — the lamb chops, were just too big. Turns out Mr. Ladner is not trying to replicate the past, just make peace with it and find a way to move on.

Source: New York Times February 13, 2026 19:48 UTC