When I was growing up, Fourth of July did not call for apple pie or fancy berry tarts but rather a birthday cake. It was for Tio Refugio, my shy, tall and rail-thin uncle whose long, wizened face has always reminded me of Don Quixote as illustrated by Gustave Doré. Newsletter Eat your way across L.A. Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more from critics Bill Addison and Patricia Escárcega. AdvertisementI have many memories of watching Tio Refugio humming along softly as we sang “Feliz Cumpleaños” and then afterward gathered around the backyard to watch the surrounding fireworks displays, balancing wobbly paper plates on our knees. Looking back, our spreads had zero resemblance to the polished, star-spangled Fourth of July photos on the cover of the glossy food and lifestyle magazines.

Source: Los Angeles Times July 04, 2020 12:56 UTC