It takes about 25 minutes before you realise where the first episode of Neven’s Irish Food Trail (RTÉ One, Wednesday, 8.30pm) is leading. “How good does that look?” he says, as though butter wouldn’t melt in his pulmonary artery. The efforts of Neven Maguire’s new show, however, are to trace the sources of such indulgences. Within the show, though, this feels like a miracle of the machine age, the way Soviet propaganda used to lionise the tractor, or the way Neven enthuses later about a brand of blender. But, calorific as the results might be, it’s a relief when it leads Neven back to the kitchen.

Source: The Irish Times February 28, 2018 21:22 UTC