This is especially true when it comes to Marni, a house known for its carefully cultivated kooky/conceptual art gallerist appeal as defined by the founding creative director, Consuelo Castiglioni, and one that occupies a special, almost sui generis place in the fashion universe. In his debut women’s collection, Francesco Risso, the house’s new designer, did his game best. He did so much, in fact, he tripped and flipped a bit over his own evolution. Which started with padded utilitarian suits and dresses in uniform gray, the backs puffed out into bulbous cocoons, an S-shaped seam tracing a curve down the front and back, necks funnel-shaped. It’s exciting, no question, to think life is full of “infinite possibilities,” as Mr. Risso said backstage after the show, bouncing on his toes — but it’s also better not to try to experience them all at once.

Source: New York Times February 26, 2017 13:41 UTC