POMEROL, France — The word Bordeaux connotes magnificent chateaus, aristocratic (or at least wealthy or corporate) landowners and wines that occasionally live up to their pretensions. But in the vine-covered countryside surrounding this sleepy village, where the tiniest undulation of the land constitutes a hill, another side of Bordeaux is on display. Here, the sort of corporate ownership, grandiose architecture and Hermès-wearing executives you might find in the Médoc — home to many of the most famous Bordeaux estates — is practically nonexistent. Contrary to the common perception of Bordeaux, Pomerol is a land of small family estates run by vignerons, people who grow the grapes and make the wines. In contrast to Bordeaux’s current image as a luxury brand, Burgundy has become a symbol of authenticity, even as its prices have skyrocketed.
Source: New York Times February 26, 2018 16:12 UTC