Before he even thinks about what objects to put out, though, he considers lighting. “I will actually rewire lamps to create the right ambience,” he says. To establish a laid-back mood, Tieghi-Walker invites people to seat themselves (no place cards, in other words), and safety permitting, he likes to strategically overcrowd the table with chairs and benches, forcing people to get close. “I like getting a sense of joy or humor from a meal,” says Tieghi-Walker. “So much of life takes so much effort, but meals are a moment when you should relax, so why overcomplicate it?”

Source: New York Times July 22, 2021 12:56 UTC