Ms. Wolfert has been collaborating with a writer on a biography to be published in April. Ms. Wolfert started cooking as a young bride, taking classes from the French instructor Dione Lucas, who was famous for her omelets. On a recent Saturday, Ms. Thelin spent the morning carefully blanching vegetables that would be seasoned with pancetta in a recipe Ms. Wolfert adapted from Michel Bras, a French chef whom Ms. Wolfert wrote about in 1987. Ms. Wolfert said she should have done so before it was cooked, then took a pair of shears to the fillet. Ms. Wolfert seemed energized by the company and an opportunity to deliver stories with her favorite polished punch lines.

Source: New York Times March 21, 2017 19:01 UTC