I kept my eyes peeled for him, certain I would see him. There was a truck parked at the top of the hill that could have been his. I held my breath as I paddled out from the rocky beach, ducking my head under a wave as I made my way out to the lineup. There was a nice 3- to 4-foot set rolling in, and I took off on a wave, a perfect left. I made my bottom turn and then carved right, toes on the nose.

Source: Los Angeles Times October 20, 2018 12:33 UTC