Part of the fun of eating at a pop-up is the thrill of invading a space after hours, like being locked in the museum at night with the whale and the diamonds. When a pop-up settles down into a space of its own, it loses those things. The owners have to make decisions that were previously made for them, and those decisions will start to define them. This is the position in which we find the former pop-up Oxalis and its chef, Nico Russell, a veteran of Daniel, in New York, and Mirazur, on the French Riviera. Later he moved on to Egg, an austerely contemporary temple to breakfast which had begun its own life, more than a decade earlier, as a pop-up.

Source: New York Times February 26, 2019 17:03 UTC