The sheer number of restaurants in the city — about 27,000, according to the health inspectors — makes the argument absurd. The chef Günther Seeger, for instance, was a national star when he cooked in Atlanta. Mr. Seeger can make ingredients bend to his will almost without touching them. His cooking outshone that of some of the city’s more famous chefs, who whip their ingredients harder with far less payoff. Yet he struggled to put Günther Seeger NY on the map.

Source: New York Times June 04, 2019 15:56 UTC