ONLY A FOOL or a vegetarian would visit Atlanta without having at least one plate of fried chicken, and I’m no vegetarian. But to understand fried chicken’s place, historically and in Atlanta’s current dining scene, it might take a PhD. Luckily, I had one at my table at Greens and Gravy, a contemporary soul-food restaurant in Atlanta’s Westview neighborhood. Like any good professor, Ashanté Reese, who teaches anthropology at nearby Spelman College, gave me a reading list; mostly chick(en)-lit such as Psyche A. Williams-Forson’s...

Source: Wall Street Journal May 23, 2018 17:51 UTC