Rangoon, a Burmese restaurant that opened in Brooklyn this year just in time for the pandemic, is not precisely the place that its owners, Myo Moe and Daniel Bendjy, envisioned. Ms. Moe, the chef, would build her plates with more contrast and complexity if the world weren’t upside down. Try them anyway, along with the tea-leaf salad, even though the lotus root it should contain isn’t always available. A number of dishes have been stripped down, made simpler and sturdier so they can be packed in disposable containers. The scarcity of the cuisine alone should make Rangoon a compelling destination, but it would be an exciting one even if tea-leaf salad were as common here as Jamaican beef patties.

Source: New York Times September 21, 2020 19:30 UTC