Despite being the second-largest ethnic group in the country, it’s only in recent years that Hakka food and culture have been enjoying a popular revival. They include swanky Tung Hakka, also known as Blossom Restaurant (桐花), which has two locations here, and Gan’s Huofang (甘家伙房) inside the city’s Hakka Cultural Park. On any given night, the tables at May Snow Hakka Food (五月雪客家私房珍釀) in Daan District (大安) are filled with drinking buddies and silver-haired gatherings seeking a hearty and reliable dinner. The common image of Hakka food is that of oil-slicked and heavily-salted dishes. May Snow prides itself on much lighter versions of Hakka dishes, and when I visited, that proved largely true while not sacrificing on quality.
