“I’m Ligaya Mishan, and I’m your new chief restaurant critic at The New York Times. I’m Tejal Rao, and I’m also your new chief restaurant critic at The New York Times. This is the first time that The Times has national critics and this is the first time that we’re revealing ourselves. I think it is unrealistic in this day and age to maintain anonymity short of being a CIA agent. I used to think that part of the fun of being a restaurant critic was that you got to dress up and pretend to be someone else.
